The Upper Town Walls (Ano Poli) | A Walk Through History with a View of the Thermaic Gulf
Embark on a walk in Ano Poli (the “Castles”), where Thessaloniki encloses centuries of history within its walls. The Byzantine Walls are more than just a fortification; they are the city’s natural balcony. As you walk alongside the stone bastions, the view of the Thermaic Gulf and Mount Olympus in the distance unfolds before you. The route culminates at Eptapyrgio (Yedi Kule), the imposing fortress that guarded the Acropolis. There, the architectural grandeur of the Byzantine towers meets the dark memories of the prison, creating a poignant, experiential contrast between magnificence and human suffering. This walk is a journey from ancient defense to the recent history of the place.
Story Behind It
The walls of Thessaloniki received their final form during the Early Christian period (late 4th – early 5th century AD), mainly under Emperor Theodosius the Great, to protect the city from invasions. The fortification, which was approximately 8 kilometers long, protected the city. The northern section of the walls, in Ano Poli, connected to the Acropolis, where the fortress of Eptapyrgio was later built during the Late Byzantine period. During the Ottoman period, the fortress (Yedi Kule, meaning “Seven Towers”) and the towers, such as the Trigonion Tower, were reconstructed and reinforced. The most dramatic change occurred around 1890 when Eptapyrgio was converted into a prison for almost a century, until 1989. Today, the walls and the fortress have been handed over to the Ministry of Culture, functioning as an open museum.
Why We Love It
We love the Upper Town Walls because they offer the best “history lesson” of Thessaloniki. They provide an unbeatable 360-degree panoramic view, making them the city’s natural balcony. Furthermore, the walk leads you into the heart of the picturesque Ano Poli, with its traditional houses and Byzantine churches. The visit to Eptapyrgio adds a moving dimension to the walk, reminding us of the dark centuries and the resilience of Greek history and memory.
Fresh Tips
- Sunset Spot: The best spot to watch the sunset is near the Trigonion Tower (or Lampros Pyrgos). The sun setting over the Thermaic Gulf and Mount Olympus offers a breathtaking spectacle.
- Memorial Path: At Eptapyrgio, dedicate time to the exhibition housed in the old prison facilities, which highlights the recent history through testimonies of prisoners and staff.
- Access: Access to the highest points is best done by bus (usually Ano Poli lines) or taxi, although hiking from the city center is possible, though uphill.
- Gastronomy: After the walk, enjoy authentic food at the traditional tavernas in Ano Poli located right below the walls.
More Experiences
