The Arapides of Volakas: The Awakening of the Earth and the Thunderous Dance
Close your eyes and imagine the scene: You are in the mountainous village of Volakas, Drama, amidst the January frost, as the Dodecahemeron (January 6th-8th) reaches its peak. Suddenly, the silence is broken by a mute, metallic roar that gradually escalates into a deafening storm. It is the sound of thousands of bells dancing. The Arapides appear: imposing figures with terrifying, black masks made of goatskin, dressed in thick capes. Every step, every jump they make, is a primeval strike that awakens the earth and exorcises evil. This is not a simple parade, but a deep ritual that transforms Volakas into a living museum, offering an experiential connection to the roots and folklore of Greece.
The Story Behind It
The root of the custom is likely found in the Dionysian ceremonies of antiquity, which related to the fertility of the earth, the rebirth of nature, and the expulsion of evil spirits. The Arapides, with their black colour (referring to the depths of the earth and the darkness of winter) and their bells, act as mediators between the upper and lower worlds. The deafening noise of the bells is intended to frighten away and expel all things negative, so that the New Year can begin with prosperity and a good harvest. The final ceremony of enslavement and liberation symbolises the victory of life over death and renewal.
Why We Love It
We love it because it is a living, unadulterated connection to our history and folklore.It is an intense and immersive experience that sweeps you away. The ritual of the jumping and dancing and the rhythmic, oh-so-loud sound of the bells transport the visitor to another era, offering a unique spectacle. Furthermore, the authenticity of the masks and costumes (which are made in a traditional manner), and the deep participation of the locals (who revive the custom with reverence and pride) demonstrate respect for tradition.
The Programme: When and How to Experience It
The custom takes place consistently every year, from January 6th to 8th:
- January 6th (Theophany): The “Bara” Ritual
– Time: Around 11:00 a.m.
– What Happens: The “Bara” ritual is revived. The priest, the community president, and the newly married couples of the previous year are thrown into the fountain, in a ceremony of purification and good luck.
– Night: Followed by the “Stealing” of items from the homes of the unmarried girls by the village’s young men.
- January 7th (Saint John’s Day): The Grand Appearance of the “Arapides”
– Noon (Around 12:00 p.m.): The grand procession of the village begins with the Camel and the first Arapides, accompanied by local musicians.
– Afternoon (Around 3:00 p.m.): The main groups of the Arapides emerge from the alleyways, culminating in the square where they boil goat meat.
– Evening (Around 6:00 p.m.): A large feast takes place in the square, often joined by the costumed “Bears” (Arkoudes).
- January 8th: The “Babo” Ritual
– Afternoon (Around 4:00 p.m.): The ritual of the “Babo” (the midwife) is revived, as a seal of fertility (in the courtyard of the elementary school).
Fresh Tips
- Get Ready for Noise: The bells are truly deafening. If you are sensitive to sound, wear earplugs. It is part of the experience, but the volume is intense.
- The Role: The Arapides are there to play their part and may symbolically “enslave” you with their rope. Allow yourself to participate in the game.
- Warm Up: Volakas in January is very cold. Make sure to wear warm clothes and look for hot wine or tsipouro in the local taverns to keep your body and spirits warm.
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