Astypalaia Town (Chora): The “Butterfly” Kissed by the Castle

Astypalaia’s Chora (main town) is one of the most photographed capitals in the Aegean. Built amphitheatrically on a hill that juts into the sea, the Chora combines Cycladic architecture (whitewashed houses with blue doors and windows) with Dodecanese history culminating in its impressive Venetian Castle. The island, shaped like a butterfly due to its narrow isthmus, features the Chora and its Castle as its very heart.

Begin your exploration at the line of eight traditional Windmills that stand proudly, like guardians of the sunrise, at the top of the slope. From there, lose yourself in the narrow, whitewashed alleys. Chora is filled with flowery courtyards, small shops, and cafes. Every step leads you higher towards the final goal: the dark, stone Querini Castle dominating the summit, offering the most magical view of the Aegean.

Story Behind It

The history of Chora is inextricably linked to the Venetian Castle, known as Querini Castle or “Astropalia’s Castle.” Its construction began in 1413 by the Venetian nobleman Giovanni IV Querini on the ruins of the ancient acropolis. The fortress was built as a response to the increase in piracy, aiming to revive the deserted island. The Castle is unique: it did not have conventional outer walls; instead, the outer walls of the houses themselves were built side-by-side, creating a single defensive enclosure with small windows used as embrasures. This densely populated settlement housed up to 4,000 people and operated continuously until the 1940s. Two dazzling white churches interrupt the grey stone within the enclosure: the Panagia of the Castle (1853) near the entrance and the older church of Saint George (1790). The final abandonment occurred after the catastrophic earthquake of 1956, which toppled a large part of the three-story dwellings.

Why We Love It

We love Chora because it is the perfect “hybrid” capital: it possesses the finesse of the Cyclades but the authentic, simple character of the Dodecanese. Its amphitheater setting and the imposing presence of the dark stone Castle above the bright white houses create a scene of unparalleled beauty found nowhere else in the Aegean. A walk through the alleys in the afternoon, against the backdrop of the sunset from the Windmills or the Castle top, is an unforgettable experience.

Fresh Tips

Must-See: Besides the Castle, visit the church of Panagia Portaitissa, located at the foot of the castle, which celebrates on August 15th.
Cultural Interest: Several of the restored Windmills in Chora host cultural events, a tourist office, or the island’s lending library.
Amazing View: The view from the Castle’s entrance or the Church of Saint George inside is breathtaking, encompassing the settlement, the port of Pera Gialos, and the bay of Astypalaia.